If you’ve got a small balcony and big garden dreams, you’re in the right place. I’ve grown (and failed with) dozens of balcony plants over 10+ seasons, so the picks below reflect what actually survives sun, shade, and wind. You’ll find exact pot sizes in inches, soil volumes in gallons, practical watering cues, and smart privacy options that won’t overload your balcony.
New to balcony gardening? You might also like How to Grow an Indoor Herb Garden (Beginner’s Guide).
What Will Thrive on Your Balcony
Sunlight test (5 minutes):
Count hours of direct sun on a clear day.
- 6–8+ hours = full sun;
- 3–5 hours = part sun/part shade;
- 0–2 hours = bright indirect/shade.
Western exposures often spike late-day heat—plan larger pots or self-watering help.
Wind check: If a paper napkin flaps steadily, assume it’s windy. Cluster pots, add a slim 60–72″ trellis as a baffle, and favor flexible stems or compact forms.
Wind hack: A slim trellis 2–4″ away from the railing breaks gusts without turning your balcony into a sail.
Pot size & weight basics:
- 8–10″ (≈1–2 gal) for compact flowers/succulents;
- 10–12″ (2–3 gal) for most herbs;
- 12–14″ (5 gal) for cherry tomatoes/peppers;
- 14–16″ (7–10 gal) for privacy grasses/climbers;
- 16–18″ (10–15 gal) for dwarf shrubs.
Use resin or fabric pots with soilless mix and perlite for lighter weight. Water when the top 1–2″ is dry, then soak until 10–20% drains.
Best Plants for Full Sun Balconies (6–8+ hours)
Compact herbs (8–12″; 1–3 gal): Basil (10–12″; 2–3 gal)—pinch weekly; protect below ~55°F nights. Thyme (8–10″; 1–2 gal)—let it dry a bit between waterings. Rosemary (10–12″; 2–3 gal)—let top 2″ dry; bring in if nights dip to low 40s°F.
Reminder: Move basil and rosemary indoors if nights dip below ~50°F for more than a couple of days.
Pollinator flowers (10–12″; 2–3 gal): Calibrachoa, verbena, lantana—feed lightly every 2–3 weeks; perfect for railing boxes.
Dwarf edibles (12–14″; 5 gal): Cherry tomato—stake early; keep watering consistent. Mini peppers—warm nights (≥55°F) help fast fruit set.
Trailers (6–8″ deep; 1–2 gal): Sweet potato vine (ornamental) or bacopa to spill over edges.
On 90°F+ days, toss a small shade cloth over tomatoes noon–4 pm to reduce leaf scorch.
Best Plants for Part-Shade to Shade (≤5 hours or bright indirect)
Herbs (10–12″; 2–3 gal): Mint (give it its own pot), chives (trim flowers for tender leaves), parsley (keep evenly moist; let top ~1″ barely dry).
Foliage color (10–12″; 2–3 gal): Coleus (shade types; pinch for bushiness) and heuchera (mounded, tidy) pair beautifully with trailing creeping jenny.
Shade bloomers (10–12″; 2–3 gal): Impatiens and begonias for reliable color where the sun is scarce. Windy shade dries pots fast—wicking reservoirs in 12″ pots are weekend lifesavers.
Best Plants for Balcony Privacy (fast, narrow, container-friendly)
Climbing screens (14–16″; 7–10 gal + 60–72″ trellis): Star jasmine (evergreen look in mild winters) and compact clematis—tie new shoots, mulch roots.
Upright grasses (14–16″; 7–10 gal): Feather reed grass for vertical lines; compact switchgrass for airy plumes. Both sway with wind instead of snapping.
Evergreen accents (16–18″; 10–15 gal; mild winters): Dwarf boxwood or compact arborvitae—shear lightly and ensure drainage.
Seasonal quick wins (12–14″; 5–7 gal + trellis): Morning glory or pole beans for fast coverage in one season. Safety note: anchor trellises with pot feet and discreet ties to prevent toppling.
Best Low-Maintenance & Drought-Tolerant Picks
Succulent bowls (8–10″; 1–2 gal): Mix echeveria, sedum, haworthia; water only when fully dry; sharp drainage is non-negotiable.
Mediterranean herbs (10–12″; 2–3 gal): Rosemary, thyme, oregano—let the top 2″ dry; monthly light feed; thrive in heat and wind.
Heat-proof color (8–10″; 1–2 gal): Portulaca and gazania open in sun and shrug off heat. Use up to 30% perlite to keep mixes airy.
Best Wind-Tolerant & Balcony-Friendly Shrubs (where allowed)
Bay laurel (16″; 10–15 gal): Aromatic, tidy, and naturally wind-firm. Water when the top 1–2″ dries; protect if nights head into the low 40s°F.
Dwarf olive (warm zones) (16″; 10–15 gal): Loves heat, hates soggy soil. Prune for shape; protect from hard frosts.
Pot-friendly roses (14–16″; 7–10 gal): Mini or compact floribunda; stake early and feed regularly. Morning sun with afternoon shade reduces leaf scorch.
Container Specs That Prevent Sad Plants
Drainage: Multiple holes plus pot feet to create a ~1″ air gap. Skip gravel layers (they cause perched water). Use mesh or a coffee filter over holes to keep mix in place.
Soil recipe: Soilless potting mix + 20–30% perlite; optionally add a handful of pine bark fines for long-term structure.
Self-watering: Inserts or wicks in 12–18″ pots help during heat waves or short trips. Still water thoroughly until 10–20% drains, then let the system maintain baseline moisture.
Fertilizer basics: Slow-release granules at planting, plus a mild liquid feed every 2–3 weeks during peak growth. Flush monthly with plain water to prevent salt buildup.
Skip this: No gravel layers (creates perched water), no topsoil in pots (too heavy, poor drainage), and no pot without holes—ever.
Simple Balcony Layouts
3-pot starter (10–12″ each): Thriller (12″ dwarf grass or compact tomato in 5 gal), filler (10–12″ basil or coleus), spiller (10–12″ bacopa or creeping jenny).
Privacy rail run: Three 24–30″ railing planters (8–10″ deep) with jasmine/clematis starts and a slim trellis; space evenly, tie loosely.
Herb bar (near the kitchen door): 4–6 herbs in 10–12″ pots—basil, thyme, rosemary, parsley, chives, and mint in its own pot. Keep a 1–2 gal watering can nearby to stay consistent.
Troubleshooting & Seasonal Care
Heat waves (≥90°F): Shift pots 6–12″ off heat-reflective walls, clip on shade cloth noon–4 pm, and water in the evening for deeper uptake.
Cold snaps (≤32°F): Wrap pots in fleece, move tender plants indoors, and water lightly before a freeze (not soggy).
Common mistakes: Using undersized pots, no drainage, overwatering in shade, and ignoring wind burn (crispy edges). Add a baffle and prune lightly to recover.
FAQs
- Best plant for zero direct sun? Heuchera + creeping jenny for texture; mint for edible interest (10–12″; 2–3 gal).
- Smallest pot for tomatoes that still works? 5 gal (≈12–14″) for cherries; smaller leads to stress and tiny yields.
- How to stop pots drying on a windy 7th-floor? Use self-watering inserts, cluster pots, add a 60–72″ baffle trellis, and size up one pot.
- Lightweight soil that won’t collapse roots? Soilless mix + 20–30% perlite + a handful of pine bark fines.
- Fastest privacy this season vs. perennial next year? This season: morning glory or pole beans on a trellis (5–7 gal). Next year: star jasmine or compact grasses in 14–16″ planters.
Mini Shopping List
- Pots: 8″, 10″, 12″, 14–16″, 16–18″ (resin/fabric) with matching saucers and pot feet
- Planters: 24–30″ railing planters (8–10″ deep)
- Soil: 2–3 cu ft soilless mix; perlite (8–12 qt); optional pine bark fines
- Supports: 60–72″ trellis, soft ties, slim stakes for tomatoes/roses
- Watering: 1–2 gal watering can; optional self-watering inserts/wicks
- Fertilizer: slow-release granules + mild liquid feed
First watering: After potting, water until 10–20% drains out, wait 10 minutes, then water once more to collapse air pockets.
Quick-Start Checklist
- Measure sun hours (0–2 / 3–5 / 6–8+).
- Test wind; plan a slim trellis baffle if needed.
- Match plant to pot: 10–12″ for most herbs; 5 gal (12–14″) for cherry tomatoes.
- Use soilless mix + 20–30% perlite; skip gravel layers.
- Water when top 1–2″ is dry; soak until 10–20% drains.
- Feed lightly every 2–3 weeks in peak season.
- For privacy: jasmine/clematis + trellis or compact grasses in 14–16″ planters.
Sources & Further Reading
For deeper dives on container sizes, watering, and plant selection, see university extension resources and trusted horticulture orgs such as the University of Florida IFAS Extension, Colorado State University Extension, and the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS). These provide time-tested container gardening fundamentals you can adapt to your balcony conditions.
